For Christmas 2021, I was gifted an inclinometer to install in my 4Runner. It was an inexpensive model from Amazon, and in true fashion, I couldn’t help but disassemble it and make it my own. I made a few changes, starting with how it mounts.
The inclinometer, modded and mountedThe inclinometer at night, matching the rest of the green LED dash lights
Custom Mount
The inclinometer came with a flat mounting plate with an adhesive backing, but the dashboard in my ’92 4Runner doesn’t have a nice flat spot that would work where I could see it from the driver seat. Since I was in the process of installing some RAM Mount tracks, I decided to convert the inclinometer to work with the RAM Mount system instead.
The original flat mounting plate
Thankfully, the original mounting plate just snaps off the back, leaving a nice flat surface to work with. Using the RAM base as a template, I marked and drilled 2 holes for the screws.
Holes drilled and parts laid out
Note that I mounted it slightly off-center to leave room for the square hole, which is a notch for the wires to hook on inside. The offset also worked out well for positioning it in the vehicle, moving it slightly further away from my phone mount.
The new RAM base installed
A couple of additional pieces are necessary to mount this on a RAM track: a T-track ball mount and a double socket arm
LED Lighting
The single factory incandescent bulb wasn’t cutting it for me since it didn’t match the other green LED dash lights I had put in place. Fortunately, it was pretty easy to replace the bulb with a strip of green LEDs with a soldering iron. The bulb was mounted to a board with the power supply wires soldered to it. I could reuse the board for the LED strip, so I desoldered the wires and bulb.
Desoldering the wires and incandescent bulb from the board
Then I soldered the wires to the LED strip, peeled off the protective backing, and stuck it to the board.
The LED strip attached to the board with wires soldered to it.
Then it was just a matter of reinstalling the board in the inclinometer like it was before.
The board reinstalled with the LED strip
To get power to the inclinometer, I drilled an extra hole in the dash inside the RAM mount track where I could feed the wire. Then, I actually disassembled a T5 LED bulb (size 74 factory bulb) and soldered a couple of lead wires on it so that I could easily plug it into a factory dash bulb location. Since my Midland MXT115 GMRS radio is now where the ashtray used to live, the ash tray bulb socket wasn’t being used, making it the perfect candidate to tie into and keep tucked behind the radio.
Modified T5 LED bulb with lead wiresThe inclinometer illuminated with the green LED strip
Cost
The inclinometer was free to me, but RAM Mount parts aren’t terribly cheap. However, they’re such a great product, this was one of those “buy once, cry once” situations in my book. That said, see if you can buy them on eBay with free shipping since RAM Mount charges a lot for shipping!
When I swapped a 3.4 engine and ECU into my 4Runner, the donor vehicle had an automatic transmission, and the ECU expected to see signals from the automatic transmission solenoids. Without those signals, it would illuminate the check engine light, masking any real issues I may need to investigate. To avoid that, the signals can be spoofed or simulated using resistors. All that’s needed is a little wiring and soldering.
Supplies
(3) 15 ohm power resistor, rated for 25W or higher
(1) 5 ohm power resistor, rated for 50W or higher
18-20 AWG wire
Project box or mounting surface
Tools
Wire cutters/strippers
Soldering iron and solder
Pinout
A 3rd gen 4runner auto ECU will have 5 pins for the Electronically Controlled Transmission (ECT) Solenoid. In a 2002 4runner, these pins are as follows:
SL (Connector E9 Pin 1, LG)
S1 (Connector E9 Pin 3, P-L)
S2 (Connector E9 Pin 2, L-W)
SLT+ (Connector E11 Pin 5, R-Y)
SLT- (Connector E11 Pin 11, Y-B)
Diagram for 2002 4Runner with automatic transmission
The SL, S1, and S2 wires all go through the solenoids to ground. The SLT+ wire goes through the solenoid and back to the ECU to the SLT- pin.
You will need to look at the Electronic Wiring Diagram (EWD) for your 3.4 engine’s model year and confirm the ECU pin locations and wire colors because they vary by year.
Theory
Each solenoid has a range of resistance and voltage that the computer expects to see.
The SL, No. 1, and No. 2 solenoids all have a resistance of 11–15 ohms, and range in voltage from < 1.5 V to 9–14 V, depending on which gear the auto transmission is currently in. Using the formula I = V / R, we can therefore calculate the maximum wattage as 14 V / 11 ohms = 17.8 W. To be safe, I rounded this up to be able to dissipate at least 25 W of power.
The SLT solenoid has a resistance of 5.0–5.6 ohms, and pulses between < 1.5 V and 10–12 V when the engine is idling. Consequently, we can calculate the maximum wattage as 12 V / 5 ohms = 28.8 W. I rounded this up to safely dissipate at least 50 W of power.
Based on this information, we can use 3 power resistors rated for 15 ohms and 25 W to spoof the SL, No. 1, and No. 2 solenoids, and we can use 1 power resistor rated for 5 ohms and 50 W to spoof the SLT solenoid.
Build
Essentially all that needs to be done is soldering wires to the resistors and then connecting the wires to the ECU and ground accordingly.
The wires to the ECU connectors should ideally be joined with a lineman splice to the connector wires and then soldered. This will create a very strong connection to avoid signal interruption to the ECU. Optionally, instead of a direct splice, the wires can be crimped and soldered to terminals or a multi-pin connector so that the simulator can be easily removed from the ECU.
Prototype of the simulator. Notice how the brown ground wires are chained together at the bottom. The wire nuts are very temporary and shouldn’t be used long-term!
There are 2 options for the ground wire coming from 3 of the resistors:
Run it directly to a bolt on the chassis for a direct ground
Splice it into the ground wire coming from the ECU
I opted for option 2 to keep everything ECU-related contained and not have another ground point to worry about.
Testing
Once everything is wired up and the simulator is connected to the ECU and properly grounded, then the ECU should no longer through a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) related to the automatic transmission solenoids. You may need an OBD-II port connected to your ECU to verify this, but if this was the only issue causing the check engine light to illuminate, then the check engine light should no longer be on!
Cost
This was a pretty cheap fix. I only needed to buy the power resistors, and was able to use wires and hardware I already had on hand.
15 ohm power resistors: $15.60
5 ohm power resistor: $7.70
Scrap wires: free
Wood mounting plate: free
Wire nuts: free
Total cost: $23.30
I’m planning to revisit this mod in the near future to tidy it up and move it to the engine bay. The resistors still get pretty toasty, so I’ve slipped the whole assembly into an old coffee can that sits on the passenger floorboard for now so my wife doesn’t burn her foot!
Recently, the rear window on my 2nd gen 4Runner started intermittently not rolling down. Pretty soon, it was intermittently working and usually didn’t work at all. When it worked, it worked great, but when it didn’t, nothing happened, so I knew it wasn’t the window motor. Since I could hear the rear window relay click when I turned the key in the tailgate, I suspected the contacts had worn out and the relays needed to be replaced.
(If you’re diagnosing rear window issues, 4Crawler has a great troubleshooting page that I found really helpful. It’s geared toward 1st gen 4runners, but most of it is applicable to 2nd gens as well.)
I had actually already replaced the rear window relays about 3 years ago, but I used some cheap Chinese relays from Amazon that weren’t built to last. This time I ordered 4 Panasonic relays from DigiKey. They’re a drop-in replacement for the original relays and are rated for 10A instead of 6A so they should last quite a bit longer.
2 relays removed, 2 of the cheap Chinese relays in blue, and the 2 original larger relays at the bottom (never replaced).
This is a cheap fix to a common problem. I only paid $12.66 for these high-quality relays from DigiKey, half of which was shipping, and I already had all the tools. If you have to buy a soldering iron, solder, and flux, you might spend $30 or $40 total.
Accessing the Relay Box
The first problem was that my window was rolled up, and I needed to open the tailgate to get to the relay box. To solve this, I ran jumper cables from the battery into the cargo area, popped off the tailgate panel inside, and used some alligator clip jumpers from the jumper cables to the pins on the rear window motor plug to roll the window down. Kind of a pain, but it worked!
With the tailgate open, I pulled off the trim along the bottom edge of the cargo area, and then pulled back the driver side quarter panel trim, just enough to access the bolts holding the relay box to the body. The relay box unplugs from the connector and then there are 3 enclosure pieces that pop off in order to slide the circuit board out.
You can see the quarter panel trim pulled back to access the relay box.
Replacing the Relays
Once I had the circuit board free, I warmed up my solder sucker, dabbed a little flux on the joints, and proceeded to remove the solder from the old relays.
You’ll notice on the circuit board that the relays are labeled. By examining the wiring diagram and doing some probing on the circuit board, I worked out the following:
RY3 is the window up relay
RY4 is the window down relay
RY5 and RY6 appear to be for the rear washer
RY1 and RY2 appear to be for the rear wiper
I went ahead and replaced RY3, RY4, RY5, and RY6 since they were all the same cheap relays I had replaced before. If you’re only having problems with the window itself, you can probably get away with just replacing RY3 and RY4.
I highly recommend a solder sucker, desoldering iron, wick, or braid to remove the old relays. It’s not necessary, but it makes the process a lot faster and cleaner. Flux isn’t necessary either, but it helps.
With the solder removed, the old relays should pop out pretty easily with a little wiggling.
Old relays removed from the circuit board using my solder sucker.
The new relays fit snugly in the holes, so I didn’t end up needing a third hand. I had to re-tin my soldering iron but then I was able to quickly solder the pins to the board.
Be sure to use proper technique when soldering on the circuit board, since it is easy to damage the board. Make sure the soldering iron is clean and properly tinned first. Then get a bit of solder on the end of the iron, hold the relay pin in place, and touch the soldering iron to both the pad on the board and the pin. The solder should flow onto both the pad and the pin to make a solid connection. Let it cool without moving the pin, then move onto the next pin.
New relays installed on the circuit board.
With the new rear window relays installed, reinstall the relay box and test out the rear window. If the relays were the problem as they were on mine, it should be working like new now!
Switch Mod
While I had the circuit board out, I took the opportunity to do the switch mod that allows me to roll down the rear window using the switch in the center console without having the key in the ignition. Since using the key in the tailgate doesn’t require the ignition switch, it’s simply a matter of jumping the pins used for the tailgate switch to the pins used for the console switch.
For the 2nd gen 4runner, the following pins are jumped:
I chose to jump the pins on the top of the circuit board by soldering some copper wire across the connector leads, but it was pretty tricky to solder pin 17 this way. Alternatively, you could jump the pins on the bottom of the circuit board where the connector isn’t in the way.
This mod worked great and really makes it easier to access the back without using my key at all. It also sets me up to install a future mod: an additional rear window switch located in the cargo area, so I can easily roll down the rear window if I’m sleeping in the back.
Bonus: Tailgate Access
As an aside, once you have your rear window working, if you need to roll it up to access the guts of the tailgate while it’s open, you can disconnect the 2 rear window lock switches located on either side of the tailgate, and then roll the window up with the switch. This is handy for accessing the key switch in the tailgate from the inside. Careful not to roll it up too far, though!
Driver side rear window lock switch disconnectedPassenger side rear window lock switch disconnected
After poring over service manuals and forums, I believe I’ve finally pieced together what should be a functional EVAP system for my 3.4 swap using the components that I’ve gathered. I came up with 2 options: one using the 3rd-gen 1998 charcoal canister, and one using the original 2nd-gen 1992 charcoal canister.
General Approach
Overall, the goal is to build a system that satisfies the ECU’s EVAP-related inputs so it doesn’t throw any codes.
In both scenarios, I made use of following parts:
2002 ECU
2002 VSV for EVAP
2002 VSV for CCV (Canister Closed Valve)
1999 VSV for VPS (Vapor Pressure Sensor)
1999 VPS (Vapor Pressure Sensor)
The wiring is the same between the two systems, and the hose and vacuum lines are virtually the same as well. The primary difference between the two is the canister used, and how the VSV for CCV is hooked up (or not hooked up).
The biggest challenge to actually piecing this together will be adding connectors for the VSV for VPS and VPS, since I don’t currently have those on my wiring harness. I’ll either need to source replacement connectors from the right year (preferable) or just use terminals on the pins (not as clean).
Using the 1998 Charcoal Canister
Diagram with 1998 box-style charcoal canister showing wiring, hose routing, and air/vapor flow.
With the 1998 box-style charcoal canister, the setup is essentially the same as a typical 1996-2000 EVAP system. The primary difference is the addition of the VSV for CCV off of the 2002 harness, which my ECU expects to see.
The two tees in the fuel vapor lines shown in the diagram are actually integrated into the EVAP canister itself, so there won’t be any tee fittings to install.
Using the 1992 Charcoal Canister
Diagram with 1992 cylinder-style charcoal canister showing wiring, hose routing, and air/vapor flow.
With the smaller 1992 cylinder-style charcoal canister, the system is mostly the same, but there isn’t a dedicated fresh air intake on the older canister, so the VSV for CCV can’t be hooked up. It will still be plugged into the ECU, but the hoses on the VSV will either be capped or removed completely, depending on what the ECU likes best. At least one person said it doesn’t have to be hooked up at all, but I like to avoid unused plugs if possible.
Additionally, the tees in the vapor lines shown in the diagram will actually require tee fittings since they are not integral in the older style canister.
Several of the parts I need are now packed in a box as we’re about to move across the country, so it may take me a bit to actually get around to installing the EVAP system for my 3.4 swap. Plenty of time to decide which option to go with, though!
When I did the 3.4 engine swap in my 4Runner, I didn’t pull over the EVAP system from the donor vehicle, so I’ve been running without one for a few months now. My donor vehicle for the swap, a 2002 4Runner, had the newer style EVAP system located back by the fuel tank, something I didn’t want on my ’92. Since then, I’ve acquired the older style 3rd gen EVAP canister and VSVs (Vacuum Switching Valves), and I still have the original ’92 canister, and I’m trying to piece together Frankenstein’s EVAP system from all these parts to work with my swap.
Parts
Here’s what I have to work with:
2002 engine wiring harness
2002 VSV for EVAP
2002 VSV for CCV (Canister Closed Valve)
1999 VPS (Vapor Pressure Sensor)
1999 VSV for EVAP
1998 EVAP canister (larger box style)
1998 VSV for VPS (Vapor Pressure Sensor)
1992 EVAP canister (smaller cylindrical style)
1999 VPS (left) and VSV for EVAP
I saw a few places reference the “VSV for EVAP” part as the “Canister Purge Solenoid,” which may come in handy when looking for replacement parts.
2002 VSV for EVAP (top left) and VSV for CCV (top middle), with hoses
Process
First, I had to figure out what plugs I had available on the 2002 engine harness to work with. Using the 2002 wiring diagram, I was able to locate the plugs for the VSV for EVAP and the VSV for CCV.
2002 engine harness plugs for the VSV for CCV (left, background) and VSV for EVAP (right, foreground)
However, the other 2 plugs were part of the body wiring harness on the donor car which I did not keep, so I’ll need to do some extra wiring work to hook up the VPS and VSV for VPS.
Check out Part 2 as I map all of this out and figure out how to hook it up so my 3.4 swap can have a working EVAP system!
I recently installed a CB radio in my 4Runner. It turns out that certain smaller CB radios, like the Uniden PRO520XL that I used, fit perfectly in the ashtray location. I put together a short video on how I did the install, and I’ve included a few extra details below.
I’m actually running a 4′ antenna, not a 5′ like I said in the video. I also forgot to mention that you’ll probably need a right-angle connector for the antenna on the back of the CB (you can see it when I’m test-fitting the radio) in order to fit inside the dash. Mine is right up against the back with the right-angle connector and there wouldn’t have been enough room without it.
Be sure to tune your antenna before you use the radio! The video below has great instructions on how to tune your antenna. For tuning, I used the following additional parts:
